SOME HELPFUL FAULT FINDING TIPS ARE:

TESTING VOLTAGE DROPS IN THE CIRCUIT.

DO A BATTERY LOAD TEST AS DESCRIBED IN THE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS,

VOLTAGE DROPS IN THE CIRCUIT CAN BE CAUSED BY DIRTY, LOOSE OR CORRODED CONNECTIONS OR SWITCHES.

BECAUSE RESISTANCE IN THE CIRCUIT IS ADDITIVE, SMALL RESISTANCES IN THE BATTERY, CONNECTIONS, FUSE HOLDERS, IGNITION SWITCHES, KILLBUTTONS OR GROUNDS ETC CAN LEAD TO FURTHER VOLTAGE DROPS.

THEY CAN REDUCE THE VOLTAGE TO THE SPARX BOX FROM THAT OF 12.6 VOLTS OF A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY TO UNDER 11 VOLTS AT THE BOX TERMINAL.

BECAUSE THE SPARX BOX DOES NOT TURN ON UNTIL IT RECEIVES IMPULSES FROM THE PICK-UP IT IS HARD TO LOAD TEST THE BOX ITSELF BUT THIS CAN BE DONE BY:

-ON POSITIVE ERRTH SYSTEMS:

REMOVING THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE COIL AND CONNECTING THE POSITIVE WIRE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THAT COIL TERMINAL

-ON NEGATIVE EARTH SYSTEMS:

REMOVE THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE NEGATIVE COIL TERMINAL AND CONNECTING A WIRE TO GROUND FROM THIS COIL TERMINAL.

THE LOAD PROVIDED BY THE COIL COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT.

NOW WITH A DIGITAL VOLT METER, MEASURE THE DC VOLTAGE AROUND THE CIRCUIT WITH ONE LEAD ON THE BATTERIES EARTH TERMINAL AND THE OTHER METER LEAD MEASURING AROUND THE CIRCUIT AT ALL OF THE CONNECTIONS IN THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU GET TO THE JUMPER LEAD BETWEEN THE COLS.

AT THIS POINT YOU WILL SEE A VOLTAGE DROP FROM THE RESISTANCE OF THE FIRST COIL, IF YOU MEASURE ANYTHING LESS THAN THE BATTERIES VOLTAGE UP TO THIS POINT YOU MUST FIND THE CAUSE OF THE VOLTAGE DROP.

THE MOST COMMON CAUSES ARE FURRED UP CONNECTIONS AND FAULTY IGNITION/KILL SWITCHES.

THE MAXMUM CURRENT DRAW THROUGH THE SPARK BOX MUST NOT EXCEED 5 AMPS.

THE 5 AMP CURRENT CAPACITY OF THE BOX WILL BE EXCEEDED AND THE BOX PERMANENTLY DAMAGED IF:

1. THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE BOX IS SHORTED TO EARTH
2. THE BLACK WIRE BETWEEN THE COILS IS SHORTED TO EARTH
3. THE COILS ARE INTERNALLY SHORTED TO EARTH
4. THE RESISTANCE OF THE COIL OR COILS IN SERIES IS LESS THEN 2.4 OHMS.

THE COILS SUPPLIED WITH THE KIT ARE 6 VOLT AND IS WHAT WE RECOMMEND, BUT IF YOU USE GOOD QUALITY 12 VOLT COLS WITH & 3.7 OHMS RESISTANCE (APPROX) THAT WILL WORK FINE.

TWIN LEAD COILS CAN BE USED AS LONG AS THE TOTAL RESISTANCE OF THE COILS IS BETWEEN 3 AND 7.5 OHMS.

THE UNIT MUST ALWAYS BE WIRED WITH THE FRAME OR CHASSIS ACTING AS A GROUND.

IF THE MOTOR IS RUBBER MOUNTED THEN AN EARTHING STRAP IS NEEDED BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND FRAME

IF THE BIKE IS BEING OPERATED WITHOUT A BATTERY THEN A CAPACITOR (LUCAS TYPE 2MC OR 54170009) OR SIMILAR MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE WIRING SYSTEM, ALL WIRE MUST BE CUT TO LENGTH AND NEVER BE COILED UP AS THIS CAN AFFECT THE IGNITION SYSTEM.

ALSO THE STATOR PLATE WIRES MUST NOT BE RUN ALONGSIDE AC ALTERNATOR WIRES

*NOTE THAT TRIPLE OWNERS MUST NOT USE THE STANDARD STATOR PLATE WIRES IN THE ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS AS THE AC WIRES RUN NEXT TO THEM IN THE HARNESS.

THIS IS WHY WE PROVIDE A HARNESS UITH THE IGNITION KIT TO MINIMISE THESE PROBLEMS,

THE SYSTEM RUNS “WASTED SPARK” MEANING ALL PLUGS FIRE TOGETHER AT THE SAME TIME, SO IF A MISFIRE OCCURS ON ONLY ONE CYLINDER THEN IT IS LIKELY TO BE CARB/COIL OR MECHANICAL PROBLEM WITH THAT CYLINDER

Ignition kit SPX21A for twins